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Благодарности

Для начала я хотела бы поблагодарить 606 женщин (плюс горсточку мужчин), которые поделились со мной собственными мыслями, историями и разрешили включить их в эту книгу. Боди-имидж – тема личная и непростая. И я безмерно благодарна вам за щедрость, откровенность, ранимость, ум и проницательность.

Я также хотела бы поблагодарить экспертов и профессионалов, которые поделились со мной результатами своих исследований: д.м.н. Рене Энгельн, к.м.н. Силью Вокс, к.м.н. Гейл Дайнс, магистра Эвелин Трибол, Эштона Эпплуайта, Каролину Дунер, к.м.н. Мидж Уилсон, д.м.н. Лекси Кайт, д.м.н. Линдсея Кайта, к.м.н. Роберто Оливардиа, Эмму Сандерс и Кесли Миллер. Ваша мудрость стала основой этой книги.

Кейтлин Кетчум, спасибо, что поверила в эту книгу, за понимание всего масштаба и за то, что помогла этому произойти. Я не могу представить для этой книги лучшего партнера, чем ты.

Линдсей Эджкомб, спасибо за то, что направляла, за силу и за то, что всегда прикрывала тыл.

Марина Эсмеральдо, Эмма Кэмпион и Лиза Феркель, спасибо за огромный труд и чудесный дизайн книги.

И Бен, спасибо! За любовь, спокойный оптимизм, подбадривание; за то, что помог привести в порядок мой беспокойный писательский ум; за бесконечные вечера, которые мы провели, рассуждая об идеалах тела, месседжах, которые нам отправляют сми, и практиках удаления волос. Спасибо!

Библиография

ВВЕДЕНИЕ

The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. “Cosmetic Surgery National Data Bank Statistics 2017.” https://www.surgery.org/media/statistics.

National Eating Disorders Association, “Statistics & Research on Eating Disorders.” https://www.nationaleating disorders.org/statistics-research-eating-disorders. Accessed February 2, 2018.

Phillips, Katharine A. The Broken Mirror: Understanding and Treating Body Dysmorphic Disorder. Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 1996.

Reba-Harreleson, Lauren, Ann Von Holle, Robert M. Hamer, Rebecca Swann, Mae Lynn Reyes, and Cynthia M. Bulik. “Patterns and Prevalence of Disordered Eating and Weight Control Behaviors in Women Ages 25–45.” Eating and Weight Disorders 14, no. 4 (2009): e190–98.

Unilever. The Dove Global Beauty and Confidence Report, 2016. Accessed February 1, 2017.

БОДИ-ИМИДЖ. НАЧАЛО

Ambrosini, Melissa. Mastering Your Mean Girl: The No-BS Guide to Silencing Your Inner Critic and Becoming Wildly Wealthy, Fabulously Healthy, and Bursting with Love. New York: TarcherPerigee, 2016.

Cash, Thomas F. The Body Image Workbook: An Eight-Step Program for Learning to Like Your Looks. Oakland, CA: New Harbinger Publications, Inc., 1997.

Dweck, Carol S. Mindset: The New Psychology of Success. New York: Random House, 2006.

Steinem, Gloria. Revolution from Within: A Book of Self-Esteem. Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1993.

Thompson, Joel Kevin. “Body Image: Extent of Disturbance, Associated Features, Theoretical Models, Assessment Methodologies, Intervention Strategies, and a Proposal for a New DSM-IV Diagnostic Category-Body Image Disorder.” Progress in Behavior Modification 28 (1992): 3–54.

Walker, D. C., and A. D. Murray. “Body Image Behaviors: Checking, Fixing, and Avoiding.” In Encyclopedia of Body Image and Human Appearance, ed. Thomas F. Cash, 166–72. San Diego, CA: Elsevier Academic Press, 2012.

СРЕДСТВА МАССОВОЙ ИНФОРМАЦИИ

Engeln, Renee. Beauty Sick: How the Cultural Obsession with Appearance Hurts Girls and Women. New York: HarperCollins, 2017.

Graff, Kaitlin, Sarah Murnen, and Anna K. Krause. “Low-Cut Shirts and High-Heeled Shoes: Increased Sexualization across Time in Magazine Depictions of Girls.” Sex Roles 69 (2013): 571–582.

Hatton, E., and M. N. Trautner. “Equal Opportunity Objectification? The Sexualization of Men and Women on the Cover of Rolling Stone.” Sexuality & Culture 15 (2011): 256.

Heldman, Caroline. “Sexual Objectification (Part 1): What Is It?” The Society Pages, July 12, 2012. https://thesocietypages.org/socimages/2012/07/02/sexual-objectification-part-1-what-is-it.

Kite, Lindsay. “Empowering or Objectifying: The Clashing Camps of Body Positivity.” Beauty Redefined, January 5, 2016. https://beautyredefined.org/empowering-objectifying-body-positivity.

Kite, Lindsay, and Lexie Kite. “Stop Cheering for the Objectification of More Women.” Beauty Redefined, January 12, 2017. https://beautyredefined.org/ stop-cheering-objectification-of-more-women.

McKelle, Erin. “On Choice, Feminism, and Internalized Misogyny: Why We Participate in Patriarchal Oppression,” Everyday Feminism. July 25, 2015. https://everydayfeminism.com/2014/07/choice-feminism-internalized-misogyny.

Rooney, Emma. “The Effects of Sexual Objectification on Women’s Mental Health.” Online Publication of Undergraduate Studies 7.2 (2016): 33–36.

Unilever. The Real Truth about Beauty Revisited: Dove Global Study 2010.Accessed February 1, 2017.

ОКРУЖАЮЩИЕ

Cash, Thomas F. The Body Image Workbook: An Eight-Step Program for Learning to Like Your Looks. Oakland, CA: New Harbinger Publications, Inc., 1997.

DeVoe, Jill Fleury, and Lynn Bauer. Student Victimization in U.S. Schools: Results from the 2009 School Crime Supplement to the National Crime Victimization Survey (NCES 2012-314). U.S. Department of Education, National Center for Education Statistics. Washington, DC: U.S. Government Printing Office, 2011.

Engeln, Renee, and Rachel H. Salk. “The Demographics of Fat Talk in Adult Women: Age, Body Size, and Ethnicity.” Journal of Health Psychology 21, no. 8 (2016): 1655–64.

Hunger, Jeffrey M., and A. Janet Tomiyama. “Weight Labeling and Obesity. A 10-Year Longitudinal Study of Girls Aged 10–19.” JAMA Pediatrics 168 (2014): 579–80.

Logel, Christine, Danu Anthony Stinson, Gregory R. Gunn, Joanne V. Wood, John G. Holmes, and Jessica J. Cameron. “A Little Acceptance Is Good for Your Health: Interpersonal Messages and Weight Change over time.” Personal Relationships 21 (2014): 583–598.

Mills, Jacqueline, and Matthew Fuller-Tyszkiewicz. “Nature and Consequences of Positively Intended Fat Talk in Daily Life.” Body Image 26 (2018): 38–49.

Musu-Gillette, Lauren, Anlan Zhang, Ke Wang, Jizhi Zhang, and Barbara A. Oudekerk. Indicators of School Crime and Safety: 2016 (NCES 2017-064/NCJ 250650). National Center for Education Statistics, U.S. Department of Education, and Bureau of Justice Statistics, Office of Justice Programs, U.S. Department of Justice. Washington, DC. U.S. Government Printing Office, 2017.

National Eating Disorders Association. “Statistics & Research on Eating Disorders.” https://www.nationaleating disorders.org/statistics-research-eating-disorders. Accessed June 20, 2018.

The Psychlopaedia Team (The Australian Psychological Society). “Why ‘Fat Talk’ Can Lead to Poor Body Image.” Psychlopaedia (July 13, 2017). https://psychlopaedia.org/health/fat-talk-can-lead-poor-body-image.

Tomiyama, A. Janet. “Weight Stigma is Stressful: A Review of Evidence for the Cyclic Obesity/Weight-Based Stigma Model.” Appetite 82 (2014): 8–15.

САМОВОСПРИЯТИЕ

Bauer, A., et al. “Selective Visual Attention towards Oneself and Associated State Body Satisfaction: An Eye-Tracking Study in Adolescents with Different Types of Eating Disorders.” Journal of Abnormal Child Psychology 45, no. 8 (November 2017): 1647–61.

Dove Real Beauty Sketches. “You’re More Beautiful Than You Think.” April 14, 2013. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=litXW91UauE.

Grogan, Sarah. Body Image: Understanding Body Dissatisfaction in Men, Women and Children. London: Routledge, 2016.

Kite, Lindsay. “Not Picture Perfect? Bounce Back from a Body Image Blow.” Beauty Redefined, May 19, 2017. https://beautyredefined.org/not-picture-perfect-bounce-back-from-a-body-image-blow.

McCabe, Marita P., Lina A. Ricciardelli, Geeta Sitaram, and Katherine Mikhail. “Accuracy of Body Size Estimation: Role of Biopsychosocial Variables.” Body Image 3, no. 2 (2006): 163–73.

Mita, Theodore H., Marshall Dermer, and Jeffrey Knight. “Reversed Facial Images and the Mere-Exposure Hypothesis.” Journal of Personality and Social Psychology 35 (1977): 597–601.

Nahman, Haley. “After 28 Years, I Still Don’t Know What I Look Like.” Man Repeller, October 18, 2017. https://www.manrepeller.com/2017/10/what-do-i-look-like.html.

Sincero, Jen. You Are a Badass: How to Stop Doubting Your Greatness and Start Living an Awesome Life. Philadelphia, PA: Running Press Adult, 2013.

Smeets, Elke, Anita Jansen, and Anne Roefs. “Bias for the (Un)Attractive Self: On the Role of Attention in Causing Body (Dis)Satisfaction.” Health Psychology 30, no. 3 (2011): 360–67.

Thompson, Joel Kevin, and Richard Enrico Spana. “The Adjustable Light Beam Method for the Assessment of Size Estimation Accuracy: Description, Psychometrics and Normative Data.” International Journal of Eating Disorders 7, no. 4 (1988): 521–26.

Voges, Mona, Claire-Marie Giabbiconi, Benjamine Schöne, Manuel Waldorf, Andrea S. Hartmann, and Silja Vocks. “Double Standards in Body Evaluation? The Influence of Identification with Body Stimuli on Ratings of Attractiveness, Body Fat, and Muscle Mass.” Eating and Weight Disorders: Studies on Anorexia, Bulimia and Obesity (2017): 1–8. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/eat.22967.

СТАНДАРТЫ КРАСОТЫ

Adams, Cecil, “Who Decided Women Should Shave Their Legs and Underarms?” The Straight Dope, February 6, 1991. http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/625/who-decided-women-should-shave-their-legs-and-underarms.

Adichie, Chimamanda Ngozi. Americanah. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2013.

Applewhite, Ashton. This Chair Rocks: A Manifesto against Ageism. Networked Books, 2016.

Ashenburg, Katherine, “Why Do Americans Cherish Cleanliess? Look to War and Advertising.” New York Times, updated May 28, 2013. https://www.nytimes.com/roomfordebate/2013/05/27/are-americans-too-obsessed-with-cleanliness/why-do-americans-cherish-cleanliess-look-to-war-and-advertising.

Bushak, Lecia. “History Of Body Image In America: How The ‘Ideal’ Female And Male Body Has Changed Over Time,” Medical Daily. November 6, 2015. https://www.medicaldaily.com/history-body-image-america-how-ideal-female-and-male-body-has-changed-over-360492.

Byrd, Ayana, and Lori Tharps. Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2014.

Cash, Thomas F. The Body Image Workbook: An Eight-Step Program for Learning to Like Your Looks. Oakland, CA: New Harbinger Publications, Inc., 1997.

Chou, Jessica. “The Bizarre History of Body Hair.” Refinery 29, May 8, 2015. http://www.refinery29.com/body-grooming-history.

Clinton, Hilary. What Happened. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2017.

Cooper, Helene. “Where Beauty Means Bleached Skin.” New York Times, November 26, 2016. https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/26/fashion/skin-bleaching-south-africa-women.html.

Davis, Kiri. “A Girl like Me.” Video posted May 4, 2007. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWyI77Yh1Gg.

Daycard, Laurène. “Cellulite Used to be Chill.” Vice, April 7, 2016. https://broadly.vice.com/en_us/article/785g89/cellulite-used-to-be-chill.

Fisher, Carrie. Fisher quote from her personal twitter account @carrieffisher. December 29, 2015.

Hope, Christine. “Caucasian Female Body Hair and American Culture.” Journal of American Culture 5 (1982): 93–99.

The International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Global Aesthetic Survey, 2016. https://www.isaps.org/medical-professionals/isaps-global-statistics.

Johnson, Maisha Z. “Ten ways the beauty industry tells you being beautiful means being white,” Everyday Feminism. January 3, 2016. https:/everydayfeminism.com/2016/01/when-beauty-equals-white.

Laan, Ellen, Daphne K. Martoredjo, Sara Hesselink, Nóinín Snijders, and Rik H. W. van Lunsen. “Young Women’s Genital Self-Image and Effects of Exposure to Pictures of Natural Vulvas.” Journal of Psychosomatic Obstetrics & Gynecology 38 (2016): 1–7.

Lawton, Georgina. “The Problems with the Natural Hair Movement.” Dazed, May 9, 2016. http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/30536/1/the-problems-with-the-natural-hair-movement.

Lee, Michelle. “Lupita Nyong’o Opens Up about the Looks She and Her Hairstylist Created for Allure’s March Issue.” Allure, February 12, 2018. https://www.allure.com/story/ lupita-nyongo-march-2018-cover-story-interview.

Lorena, Sammy. “The Psychology of Skin Whitening.” The Kolor Komplex, January 21, 2017. https://www.kolorkomplex.com/kolorkomplex-culture/2017/1/5/the-psychology-of-skin-whitening.

Marshall, Sarah. “When, and Why, Did Women Start Dyeing Their Gray Hair?” Elle, September 18, 2015. https://www.elle.com/beauty/hair/news/a30556/when-and-why-did-women-start-dyeing-their-gray-hair.

Orenstein, Peggy. Girls & Sex: Navigating the Complicated New Landscape. New York: HarperCollins, 2016.

“Our Barbie Vaginas, Ourselves.” Mother Jones, May/June 2016. http://www.motherjones.com/media/2016/05/our-waxed-barbie-vaginas-ourselves-1.

Patton, Tracey Owens. “Hey Girl, Am I More Than My Hair? African American Women and Their Struggles with Beauty, Body Image, and Hair.” NWSA Journal 18, no. 2 (2006): 24–51.

Pierre-Louis, Kendra. “Beauty Standards Are Literally Toxic for Women of Color.” Popular Science, August 16, 2017. https://www.popsci.com/personal-care-products-are-especially-toxic-for-women-color.

Rehman, Maliha. “Getting Rich from the Skin Lightening Trade.” Business of Fashion. September 27, 2017. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-currents/profiting-from-the-skin-lightening-trade.

Rowen, Tami S., Thomas W. Gaither, Mohannad Awad, Charles Osterberg, Alan W. Shindel, and Benjamin N. Breyer. “Pubic Hair Grooming Prevalence and Motivation among Women in the United States.” JAMA Dermatology 152, no. 10 (2016): 1106–13.

Russell-Cole, Kathy, Midge Wilson, and Ronald E. Hall. The Color Complex: The Politics of Skin Color in a New Millennium. New York: Anchor Books, 2013.

Scherker, Amanda. “7 Ways the Beauty Industry Convinced Women That They Weren’t Good Enough.”

Huffington Post, updated December 6, 2017. https://www.huffingtonpost.com/ 2014/04/29/beauty-industry-women_n_5127078.html.

Sutton, Denise H. Globalizing Ideal Beauty: Women, Advertising, and the Power of Marketing. Basingstoke, UK: Palgrave Macmillan US, 2009.

Thompson, Cheryl. “Black Women and Identity: What’s Hair Got to Do with It?” Politics and Performativity, 22, no. 1: 2008–2009.

Vox. “Why the Market for Skin Whitening Is Growing.” Video posted January 4, 2018. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cjzvvgmg1NU.

Wolf, Naomi. The Beauty Myth: How Images of Beauty Are Used against Women. London: Vintage, 1991.

БОЛЬШЕ ЧЕМ ТЕЛО

Cash, Thomas F. The Body Image Workbook: An Eight-Step Program for Learning to Like Your Looks. Oakland, CA: New Harbinger Publications, Inc., 1997.

Fennel, Melanie. Overcoming Low Self-Esteem: A Self-Help Guide Using Cognitive Behavioural Techniques, 2nd ed. London: Hatchett UK, 2016.

Я СЕГОДНЯ НЕ МОГУ, Я СЕГОДНЯ СЛИШКОМ ТОЛСТАЯ

Cash, Thomas F. The Body Image Workbook: An Eight-Step Program for Learning to Like Your Looks. Oakland, CA: New Harbinger Publications, Inc., 1997.

СОЦИАЛЬНЫЕ СЕТИ

Engeln, Renee. Beauty Sick: How the Cultural Obsession with Appearance Hurts Girls and Women. New York: HarperCollins, 2017.

Halliwell, Emma, Alice Easun, and Diana Harcourt. “Body Dissatisfaction: Can a Short Media Literacy Message Reduce Negative Media Exposure Effects amongst Adolescent Girls?” British Journal of Health Psychology 16 (2011): 396–403.

Kite, Lindsay, and Lexie Kite. “Selfies and Self-Objectification: A Not-So-Pretty Picture.” Beauty Redefined, March 13, 2014, https://beautyredefined.org/selfies-and-objectification.

Simmons, Rachel. “How Social Media Is a Toxic Mirror.” Time, August 19, 2016. http://time.com/4459153/social-media-body-image.

ПИТАНИЕ И ФИТНЕС

Boepple, Leah, and J. Kevin Thompson. “A Content Analytic Comparison of Fitspiration and Thinspiration Websites.” International Journal of Eating Disorders 49, no. 1 (January 2016): 98–101.

Dooner, Caroline. The F*ck It Diet: Stop Dieting and Start Taking Up Space. New York: HarperCollins, 2019.

Intuitive Eating Studies. “Creating a Healthy Relationship with Food, Mind & Body.” http://www.intuitiveeating.org/resources/studies.

Kalm, Leah M., and Richard D. Semba. “They Starved So That Others Be Better Fed: Remembering Ancel Keys and The Minnesota Experiment.” Journal of Nutrition 135, no. 6 (June 2005): 1347–52.

Kite, Lindsay, and Lexie Kite. “Your Body Is Powerful. Use It as an Instrument, Not an Ornament.” Beauty Redefined. December 18, 2014. https://beautyredefined.org/body-is-instrument-not-ornament.

Spinardi, Josie. How to Have Your Cake and Your Skinny Jeans Too: Stop Binge Eating, Overeating and Dieting for Good Get the Naturally Thin Body You Crave from the Inside Out. Walnut Creek, CA: Twirl Media, 2014.

Tribole, Evelyn, and Elyse Resch. Intuitive Eating: A Revolutionary Program That Works. New York: St. Martin’s Press/Griffin Publishing, 2012.

ЗАБОТА О КРАСОТЕ

Fey, Tina. Bossypants. Boston: Little, Brown, 2013.

ПЛАСТИЧЕСКАЯ ХИРУРГИЯ

Honigman, Roberta, Katharine A. Phillips, and David J. Castle. “A Review of Psychosocial Outcomes for Patients Seeking Cosmetic Surgery.” Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery 113, no. 4 (2004): 1229–37.

Von Soest, Tilmann, Ingela Lundin Kvalem, Helge Einar Roald, and Knut C. Skolleborg. “The Effects of Cosmetic Surgery on Body Image, Self-Esteem, and Psychological Problems.” Journal of Plastic, Reconstructive & Aesthetic Surgery 62, no. 10 (2009): 1238–44.

Назад: Повысит ли пластическая операция вашу самооценку?
Дальше: Примечания