Then head north to Upper Dovedale, where the ice must have hiccupped as it smoothed this plateau, leaving Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill rising from it like two 1,300 ft dorsal fins. Now you’re ready for the biggest, bleakest and best. The brooding plateau of Kinder Scout squats above Edale Moor, its top ironed flat by time and weather. At 2,087 ft it’s the highest point in the Peak, and on a cold day you don’t need confirmation of this from the contours on the map – your nose and toes will tell you. In the Peak District, lowland Britain rubs shoulders with the gritty uplands of the Pennines and you don’t get much grittier than Kinder. Impossibly balanced rocky outcrops perch on its top with equally impossible shapes, sculpted smooth. And when mist cloaks the landscape, these dark tors and rocks become your guides, rising from the featureless waste to beckon you to safety.