Tie a hitch when you need to connect two objects with a length of rope. Unlike loop knots, in which the rope is tied to itself and is independent of the object encircled, hitches generally depend upon the object to which they are tied for their form and integrity: remove the object, and there is no knot. They are often tied around roughly cylindrical objects like trees, posts, rails, stakes, poles, bitts, and bollards.
58.
Uses: temporary “handle” for pulling line
Pros: quick, easy, unties instantly
Cons: strictly temporary; can slip
59.
Uses: hitch or adjustable noose for perpendicular loads, e.g., boats, tarp ridgelines
Pros: strong and fairly secure, easy to tie and untie, adjustable
Cons: can slip, adjustment not as secure as Taut Line Hitch
60.
Uses: hitch or adjustable noose for perpendicular loads, e.g., boats, clotheslines
Pros: uses less rope and easier to adjust than Round Turn version
Cons: somewhat less secure than Round Turn version
61.
Uses: adjustable hitch; tent and fly guys, cargo tie-down, clotheslines, tarp ridgelines
Pros: tightens easily; holds adjustment better than Two Half Hitches
Cons: can slip, more complicated than Two Half Hitches
62.
Uses: halyards, sail sheets, tarp guy attachment, friction noose
Pros: very secure even if shaken
Cons: difficult to untie
63.
Uses: anchors, grapnels, hitching to a ring
Pros: very secure in slippery line; can be tied loose around the object
Cons: none known
64.
Uses: anchors, grapnels, hitching to a ring
Pros: strong, secure, more compact than Version 1
Cons: strain on rope is greater than Version 1
65., 66. (also )
Uses: light-duty hitch for boats, hanging gear; binding knot
Pros: easy and quick to tie
Cons: insecure; can jam
67.
Uses: heavy-duty hitch in thin line; binding; seizing
Pros: very secure, easy to tie; ends can be cut short
Cons: very difficult to untie if tightened hard
68.
Uses: pulling or taking strain off another rope, securing a load in line with fixed object
Pros: secure and easy
Cons: insecure if load is perpendicular to object
69.
Uses: hauling and lifting large heavy cylinders
Pros: simple to tie, easy to untie
Cons: insecure if load is perpendicular to object
70., 71., 72., 73. Cow Hitch (, , , )
Uses: hitching animals; adding hanging loops or tie-offs to rails, rings, other ropes
Pros: easy and quick to tie by many methods, easy to untie; does not jam
Cons: insecure; unequal loads will shift
74.
Uses: hitching to rails, posts, and rings, hanging gear
Pros: only cow hitch with a single load-bearing part; secure in any direction
Cons: not among the most secure hitches; can be difficult to untie
75.
Uses: hanging gear from horizontal ropes or rails
Pros: quick and easy to tie and untie; works when only a bight is available
Cons: insecure; will slip if loaded unevenly; requires a toggle
76.
Uses: quick-release adjustable hitch for constant light loads
Pros: releases instantly and adjustable far from the fixed object
Cons: insecure
77.
Uses: quick-release hitch for boats or horses
Pros: releases instantly far from the fixed object
Cons: insecure; not adjustable like the Mooring Hitch
1. Make an underhand crossing turn
2. Position the standing part beneath the crossing turn to make a “pretzel” shape.
3. Pass the marlinespike over-under-over through the crossing turn: over the top of the crossing turn, under the standing part, and over the bottom of the crossing turn.
4. Pull the marlinespike so that it draws a bight into the standing part that comes through the crossing turn from back to front. Continue pulling until the crossing turn tightens against the marlinespike.
3. Begin the second Half Hitch by taking the working end in front of the standing part again.
4. Complete the second Half Hitch by making another overhand crossing turn around the standing part.
5. Note how the working end is captured between the two crossing turns.
6. To tighten the standing part, slide the Half Hitches away from the anchoring object, feeding slack through the round turn as needed.
2. Complete the second Half Hitch.
3. Slide the completed knot toward the working part to take up the slack, feeding line around the fixed object.
4. Or snug the completed knot against the fixed object for slack in the standing part and greater security in the knot itself.
1. Tie a around or through the fixed object.
2. Lift the working end to make an overhand crossing turn around the standing part, then pass the working end behind the standing part.
3. Bring the working end through the half hitch from back to front without overlapping the crossing turn (i.e., keep the working end farther from the fixed object than the crossing turn).
4. The working end pulled tight at this stage.
5. Pass the working end behind the standing part and bring it forward again.
6. Pass the working end under itself to complete a Half Hitch around the standing part.
7. The knot resists slipping when load is applied to the standing part. It can be slid toward the standing part to tighten the line, or slid the other way to snug up against the fixed object and put slack in the standing part.
1. Make a turn with the working end around the fixed object or through the ring from back to front. Make an overhand crossing turn in the working end around the standing part. Cross the working end over the standing-part leg of the turn.
2. Pass the working end under the standing-part leg of the turn and pull it through to tie a .
3. Push the Half Knot and the crossing turn together, capturing the working end between them, then pull the working end tight. As shown, the knot functions as a friction noose.
4. If the knot is snugged up tight against the ring, it will hold tenaciously and become very difficult to untie.
5. Pull the Half Hitch tight against the round turn.
1. Pass the working end through the ring from front to back, then through again to make a round turn. Pass the working end in front of the standing part then through the round turn to make a kind of doubled . Don’t pull it tight yet.
2. Take the working end across and in front of the round turn.
3. Pass the working end through the round turn a second time. The knot must be worked gradually into shape, pulling slack through the round turn and hitches and into the working end and standing parts a bit at a time until the round turn is tight around the ring.
2. Pass the working end underneath itself, beside the standing part. To make the knot easier to untie, the working end may be formed into a bight before passing it through, to make a drawloop.
3. Pull both ends to tighten.
1. In a bight of the rope, make an underhand and an overhand crossing turn next to each other.
2. Place the underhand crossing turn over the overhand crossing turn.
3. Slide both crossing turns over an end of the object
4. Pull both ends to tighten.
1. Tie a loose Clove Hitch around the object.
2. Lift the standing part where it begins to make a turn around the object and tuck the working end through.
3. Pull both ends tight.
1. Make a around the object or other rope with the working end over the standing part. Ultimately, load will be applied by the standing part from the direction in which the working end overlaps the standing part at this stage (i.e., from the right in the photo).
2. Make a turn around the object, bringing the working end between the standing part and the crossing turn.
3. Make another turn around the object, this time over the standing part to capture it a second time.
4. Bring the working end under the previous turn, forming a . The working end may be formed into a bight to create a drawloop if desired.
5. Pull both ends to tighten. When load is applied in the proper direction, the standing part will overlap the two turns to the right, not the working end.
3. Pass the working end through both crossing turns.
4. Pull the working end tight, then pull the standing part to tighten the knot.
4. In one hand hold the working end against the other leg of the bight where it crosses the turn around the object, and pull the standing part of the rope to tighten the knot. Slide the knot along the standing part to take up or let out slack. Pulling on the working end will instantly release the knot.
The Highwayman’s Hitch can be instantly released from a point far from the object to which it is tied. But unlike the Mooring Hitch (opposite), which shares this feature, the Highwayman’s Hitch is snugged against the object, and when released the rope is completely free of the object and does not have to be pulled from around it, allowing a quicker getaway, be it in a canoe or on a horse.
1. Make a bight in the working end and pass it around the fixed object, leaving the working end of the bight behind the object. Make another bight in the standing part. (The working end has been left short in the photograph for clarity, but leave it long enough to reach the boat, horse, or whatever at the far end.)
2. Pass the second bight through the first one from back to front.
3. Make a third bight in the working end.
4. Pass it through the second bight from back to front.
5. Holding the third bight, pull the standing part to tighten the knot.