Книга: Гардероб наизнанку. Как индустрия моды уничтожает планету и для чего нужно вывернуть свой шкаф
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Примечания

1

thredUP Resale Report (2019). URL: https://www.thredup.com/ resale?fbclid=IwAR3CN_JVq5jF814QhXvWQxWyU_kMTQNxSZCKCM6A2qnzyXxnqx30vLe_jw8.

2

Make Fashion Circular Report (The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017) https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/ our-work/activities/make-fashion-circular/report .

3

Christopher Breward. Oxford History of Art: Fashion. Oxford, Oxford University Press, 2003.

4

Valerie Steele. Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. New York, Charles Scribners & Sons, 2004.

5

GlamourSplash. The Disposable Paper Dresses of 1967 (2008). URL: http://www.glamoursplash.com/2008/11/ disposable-paper-dresses-of-1967.html.

6

Kelly Maxwell. The True Price Of Fast Fashion (BUST, 2014). URL: https://bust.com/style/12307-the-true-price-of-fast-fashion.html.

7

Bob Lowson, Russell King, Alan Hunter. Quick Response – Managing the Supply Chain to Meet Consumer Demand. Chichester, Wiley, 1999.

8

Annie Radner Linden. An Analysis of the Fast Fashion Industry (2016). URL: https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/b2de/106e5e0f33478eea88c4592cf0fb63bae7eb.pdf.

9

Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman, Steven Swartz. Style that’s sustainable: A new fast-fashion formula (McKinsey & Company, 2016). URL: https://www.mckinsey.com/ business-functions/sustainability/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula.

10

Angel Chang. The life cycle of a t-shirt (TED-Ed, 2017). URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiSYoeqb_VY.

11

The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt (WWF, 2013). URL: https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt#.

12

Randolph Kirchain, Elsa Olivetti, T Reed Miller, Suzanne Greene. Sustainable Apparel Materials (2015). URL: http://globalcompostproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/SustainableApparelMaterials.pdf .

13

What is a carbon footprint? Carbon Trust. URL: https://web.archive.org/web/20090511102744/ http://www.carbontrust.co.uk/solutions/CarbonFootprinting/what_is_a_carbon_footprint.htm .

14

Global Warming of 1.5 °C. IPCC Special Report (2018). URL: https://report.ipcc.ch/sr15/pdf/sr15_spm_final.pdf.

15

Measuring Fashion: Insights from the Environmental Impact of the Global Apparel and Footwear Industries study (Quantis, 2018). URL: https://quantis-intl.com/measuring- fashion-report-2018.

16

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future (The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). URL: https:// www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/ publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report.pdf .

17

Factsheet: The Global Fiber Market (Lenzing). URL: https://www.lenzing.com/investors/facts-and-figures/factsheet.

18

Measuring Fashion: Insights from the Environmental Impact of the Global Apparel and Footwear Industries study (Quantis, 2018). URL: https://quantis-intl.com/measuring- fashion-report-2018.

19

Sustainable Development Goal 6: Synthesis Report on Water and Sanitation (United Nations, 2018). URL: https://www.unglobalcompact.org/docs/publications/SDG6_SR2018.pdf .

20

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future (The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). URL: https:// www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/ publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report.pdf .

21

Stacey Dooley. Fashion’s Dirty Secrets (BBC News, 2019). URL: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0bn6034.

22

Xintang pays heavy price for putting world in blue jeans (ChinaDaily, 2017). URL: https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/ kindle/2017-07/31/content_30305246.htm .

23

Indonesia’s Citarum: The World’s Most Polluted River (The Diplomat, 2018). URL: https://thediplomat.com/2018/04/indonesias-citarum-the-worlds-most-polluted-river.

24

Тони Джунипер. Как спасти планету. Наглядные факты о состоянии Земли. Москва, МИФ, 2019.

25

EJF, 2007, The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton, Environmental Justice Foundation in collaboration with Pesticide Action Network UK, London, UK. ISBN 1-904523-10-2. https://ejfoundation.org//resources/downloads/the_deadly_chemicals_in_cotton.pdf.

26

Pulse of the Fashion Industry. Global Fashion Agenda and The Boston Consulting Group, Inc. (2017). URL: http://globalfashionagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf .

27

Earth Overshoot Day. Global Footprint Network. URL: https://www.overshootday.org.

28

Randolph Kirchain, Elsa Olivetti, T Reed Miller, Suzanne Greene. Sustainable Apparel Materials (2015). URL: http://globalcompostproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/SustainableApparelMaterials.pdf .

29

Three-month report 2018. Hennes & Mauritz AB (2018). URL: https://about.hm.com/content/dam/hmgroup/groupsite/documents/en/cision/2018/03/2145888_en.pdf.

30

Randolph Kirchain, Elsa Olivetti, T Reed Miller, Suzanne Greene. Sustainable Apparel Materials (2015). URL: http://globalcompostproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/SustainableApparelMaterials.pdf .

31

Fashion Revolution written evidence to the “Sustainability of the fashion industry” inquiry (Fashion Revolution, 2019). URL: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/fashion-revolution-written-evidence-to-the-sustainability-of-the-fashion-industry-inquiry-u-k-environmental-audit-committee.

32

Eksperter undrer sig over H&M’s afbrænding af nyt tøj (Nyheder, 2017). URL: https://nyheder.tv2.dk/samfund/2017-10-15-eksperter-undrer-sig-over-hms-afbraending-af-nyt-toej.

33

Slashers’ Work Ruins Shoes Discarded at a Nike Store (The New York Times, 2017). URL: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/26/nyregion/slashers-work-ruins-shoes-discarded-at-a-nike-store.html.

34

Cartier owner destroys more than £400m of watches in two years (The Guardian, 2018). URL: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2018/may/18/richemont-destroys-nearly-500m-of-watches-in-two-years-amid-buyback-policy.

35

Burberry burns bags, clothes and perfume worth millions (BBC News, 2018). URL: https://www.bbc.com/news/business-44885983.

36

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future (The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). URL: https:// www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/ publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report.pdf .

37

Fashion Facts. Sustainable Fashion Matterz. URL: https://www.sustainablefashionmatterz.com/fashion-facts.

38

Valuing our clothes: the evidence base (WRAP, 2012). URL: http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/VoC%20FINAL%20online%202012%2007%2011.pdf.

39

How the Fashion Industry is Picking Up the Threads After Rana Plaza (Alternatives Journal, 2015). URL: https://www.alternativesjournal.ca/policy-and-politics/how-fashion-industry-picking-threads-after-rana-plaza.

40

Фонд «Второе дыхание». Переработка. URL: https://vtoroe.ru/project/pererabotka.

41

A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future (The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). URL: https:// www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/ publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report.pdf .

42

Global Fibres Overview (Tecnon OrbiChem, 2014). URL: https://www.orbichem.com/userfiles/APIC%202014/APIC2014_Yang_Qin.pdf.

43

Chris Tyree, Dan Morrison. Invisibles: The plastic inside us (Orb Media, 2017). URL: https://orbmedia.org/stories/ Invisibles_plastics .

44

Chris Tyree, Dan Morrison. Plus Plastic: Microplastics Found in Global Bottled Water (Orb Media, 2018). URL: https://orbmedia.org/stories/plus-plastic.

45

Fast alle Kinder sind mit Weichmachern belastet (Der Spiegel, 2019). URL: https://www.spiegel.de/gesundheit/schwangerschaft/weichmacher-und-pfoa-fast-alle-kinder-mit-gesundheitskritischen-chemikalien-belastet-a-1286708.html.

46

Julien Boucher, Damien Friot. Primary microplastics in the oceans (IUCN, 2017). URL: https://www.iucn.org/content/ primary-microplastics-oceans .

47

Beverley Henry, Kirsi Laitala, Ingun Grimstad Klepp. Microplastic pollution from textiles: A literature review (Consumption Research Norway – SIFO, 2018). URL: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5afae80b7c93276139def3ec/t/5b07ebd10e2e72f896dada2f/1527245797653/OR1+-+Microplastic+pollution+from+textiles+-+A+literature+review.pdf.

48

Julien Boucher, Damien Friot. Primary microplastics in the oceans (IUCN, 2017). URL: https://www.iucn.org/content/ primary-microplastics-oceans .

49

Chris Tyree, Dan Morrison. Plus Plastic: Microplastics Found in Global Bottled Water (Orb Media, 2018). URL: https://orbmedia.org/stories/plus-plastic.

50

Building Collapse in Bangladesh Leaves Scores Dead (The New York Times, 2013). URL: https://www.nytimes.com/ 2013/04/25/world/asia/bangladesh-building-collapse.html.

51

EJF, 2007, The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton, Environmental Justice Foundation in collaboration with Pesticide Action Network UK, London, UK. ISBN 1-904523-10-2. URL: https://ejfoundation.org//resources/downloads/ the_deadly_chemicals_in_cotton.pdf .

52

What makes Indian farmers kill themselves? (BBC News, 2015). URL: https://www.bbc.com/news/business-32827047.

53

Така – денежная единица Бангладеш.

54

Bangladesh Minimum Wage. Clean Clothes Campaign. URL: https://cleanclothes.org/livingwage-old/bangladesh-minimum-wage.

55

What She Makes: Power and Poverty in the Fashion Industry (Oxfam Australia, 2017). URL: http://whatshemakes.oxfam.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Living-Wage-Media-Report_WEB.pdf.

56

Goal 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth. Sustainable Development Goals, UN. URL: https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/economic-growth.

57

Inside Italy’s Shadow Economy (The New York Times, 2018). URL: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/20/fashion/italy-luxury-shadow-economy.html.

58

Global Slavery Index, 2018. URL: https://www.globalslaveryindex.org.

59

Sweatshop (Wikipedia). URL: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweatshop.

60

The 1911 Triangle Factory Fire (Cornell University). URL: http://trianglefire.ilr.cornell.edu.

61

21 Workers Die in Fire at H&M Factory (Independent, 2010). URL: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/21-workers-die-in-fire-at-hm-factory-1914292.html.

62

Gap, Next and M&S in New Sweatshop Scandal (The Guardian, 2010). URL: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2010/aug/08/gap-next-marks-spencer-sweatshops.

63

Company Behind Zara Investigated for “Slave Labour” (The Telegraph, 2011). URL: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/southamerica/brazil/8710023/Company-behind-Zara-investigated-for-slave-labour.html.

64

«I know I cannot quit.» The Prevalence and Productivity Cost of Sexual Harassment to the Cambodian Garment Industry (CARE International, 2017). URL: https://www.care.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/SHCS_Research_Summary_March_2017.pdf.

65

The Garment Worker Diaries (Fashion Revolution). URL: https://workerdiaries.org/garment-worker-diaries-reports/.

66

Global Estimates of Child Labour: Results and Trends, 2012–2016 (ILO, 2017). URL: https://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/-dgreports/-dcomm/documents/publication/wcms_575499.pdf.

67

Martje Theuws, Pauline Overeem. Flawed Fabrics: The Abuse of Girls and Women Workers in the South Indian Textile Industry (Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations, 2014). URL: http://www.indianet.nl/pdf/FlawedFabrics.pdf.

68

Activists welcome progress towards eradication of forced labour, child labour in Uzbekistan (ILO, 2019). URL: https://www.ilo.org/global/about-the-ilo/newsroom/news/WCMS_681780/lang – en/index.htm.

69

Юань – валюта Китая. 0,15 юаня – около 0,021 доллара США.

70

Bernard Arnault & family (Forbes List). URL: https://www.forbes.com/profile/bernard-arnault/#4d1097b066fa.

71

Amancio Ortega (Forbes List). URL: https://www.forbes.com/profile/amancio-ortega/#4c24eb8f116c.

72

H&M CEO Sees «Terrible» Fallout as Consumer Shaming Spreads (Bloomberg, 2019). URL: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-10-27/h-m-ceo-sees-terrible-fallout-as-consumer-shaming-spreads.

73

The G7 Fashion Pact: What it is and what it’s missing (Fashion Revolution, 2019). URL: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/the-g7-fashion-pact-what-it-is-and-what-its-missing.

74

Точных цифр пока нет, но скорее всего такое катастрофическое сокращение рабочих мест происходит по всему миру – прим. автора.

75

Kate Fletcher Web-Site. URL: http://katefletcher.com.

76

Kate Fletcher. Slow fashion (Ecologist, 2007). URL: https://theecologist.org/2007/jun/01/slow-fashion.

77

Донелла Медоуз, Денниc Медоуз, Йорген Рандерс, Уильям Беренс III. Пределы роста. М., Издательство МГУ, 1991. URL: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B94jiYiyxxDHckthb1RxOVN2TVE/view.

78

Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development: Our Common Future. URL: http://www.un-documents.net/wced-ocf.htm.

79

Don’t Buy This Jacket, Black Friday and the New York Times (Patagonia, 2011). URL: https://www.patagonia.com/blog/2011/11/dont-buy-this-jacket-black-friday-and-the-new-york-times.

80

Преобразование нашего мира: повестка дня в области устойчивого развития на период до 2030 года (Генеральная Ассамблея ООН, 2015). URL: https://undocs.org/ru/A/RES/70/1.

81

Towards the Circular Economy Vol. 3: Accelerating the Scale-up Across Global Supply Chains (The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2014). URL: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications/towards-the-circular-economy-vol-3-accelerating-the-scale-up-across-global-supply-chains.

82

Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things (Wikipedia). URL: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cradle_to_Cradle: _Remaking_the_Way_We_Make_Things.

83

China’s sharing economy comes to fashion (Vogue Business, 2019). URL: https://www.voguebusiness.com/consumers/china-sharing-economy-rental-fashion-second-hand.

84

thredUP Resale Report (2019). URL: https://www.thredup.com/resale?fbclid=IwAR3CN_JVq5jF814QhXvWQxWyU_kMTQNxSZCKCM6A2qnzyXxnqx30vLe_jw8.

85

Существуют специальные организации, которые подсчитывают углеродный след компаний и помогают им его компенсировать. Бренд перечисляет таким организациям деньги за каждую тонну углекислого газа, которую он произвел, а организация вкладывает эти средства в различные углеродно-нейтральные проекты и технологии: восстановление лесов, возобновляемую энергетику и т. п.

86

MUD Jeans: Our Impact. URL: https://mudjeans.eu/sustainability-our-impact.

87

thredUP Resale Report (2019). URL: https://www.thredup.com/resale?fbclid=IwAR3CN_JVq5jF814QhXvWQxWyU_kMTQNxSZCKCM6A2qnzyXxnqx30vLe_jw8.

88

The State of Fashion 2019: A Year of Awakening (McKinsey & Company, 2018). URL: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-state-of-fashion-2019-a-year-of-awakening.

89

thredUP Resale Report (2019). URL: https://www.thredup.com/resale?fbclid=IwAR3CN_JVq5jF814QhXvWQxWyU_kMTQNxSZCKCM6A2qnzyXxnqx30vLe_jw8.

90

Used Clothing Just Gave Lithuania Its First Tech Unicorn (Bloomberg, 2019). URL: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-11-28/first-lithuanian-unicorn-born-as-vinted-raises-140-million?srnd=premium-europe.

91

Благотворительный проект «Спасибо!»: результаты работы. URL: http://spasiboshop.org/about/results.

92

Апсайклинг (англ. upcycling) – повторное использование предмета без его промышленной переработки, например пошив нового изделия из старых вещей.

93

Фонд «Второе дыхание». Новая жизнь вещей. URL: https://shop.vtoroe.ru/new-life.

94

Ресайклинг (англ. recycling) – переработка бытовых и промышленных отходов.

95

Anna Palme, Anna Peterson, Hanna de la Motte, Hans Theliander, Harald Brelid. Development of an Efficient Route for Combined Recycling of PET and Cotton from Mixed Fabrics (Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 2017). URL: https://textclothsustain.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40689-017-0026-9.

96

Timo Rissanen, Holly McQuillan. Zero Waste Fashion Design. Bloomsbury, 2016.

97

Organic Cotton Market Report (Textile Exchange, 2019). URL: https://store.textileexchange.org/product/2019-organic-cotton-market-report.

98

Елена Смирнова. Экологическая маркировка. Москва, «Зеленая книга», 2012.

99

Organic Cotton Market Report (Textile Exchange, 2019). URL: https://store.textileexchange.org/product/2019-organic-cotton-market-report.

100

Fashion Transparency Index 2019 (Fashion Revolution, 2019). URL: https://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fashion_transparency_index_2019?e=25766662/69342298.

101

Fashion Revolution Manifesto (Fashion Revolution, 2018). URL: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/manifesto.

102

thredUP Resale Report (2019). URL: https://www.thredup.com/resale?fbclid=IwAR3CN_JVq5jF814QhXvWQxWyU_kMTQNxSZCKCM6A2qnzyXxnqx30vLe_jw8.

103

Plastic Hangers Are Fashion’s Plastic Straws (Business of Fashion, 2019). URL: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/plastic-hangers-are-fashions-plastic-straws.

104

Quicker and Cooler is Best for Clothes (University of Leeds, 2019). URL: https://www.leeds.ac.uk/news/article/4524/quicker_and_cooler_is_best_for_clothes.

105

Эвтрофикация – процесс ухудшения качества воды из-за избыточного поступления в водоем биогенных элементов.

106

Подарите своей старой обуви новую жизнь (Rendez-Vous). URL: https://www.rendez-vous.ru/recycle.

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